{"id":7298,"date":"2026-08-12T18:52:21","date_gmt":"2026-08-12T18:52:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/?p=7298"},"modified":"2026-08-12T18:52:23","modified_gmt":"2026-08-12T18:52:23","slug":"how-to-wire-a-light-switch-uk","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/es\/blog\/how-to-wire-a-light-switch-uk\/","title":{"rendered":"C\u00f3mo cablear un interruptor de luz Reino Unido: Gu\u00eda paso a paso"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Ha adquirido un nuevo interruptor de luz\u2014quiz\u00e1s un conmutador de acero cepillado que va a reemplazar su antiguo interruptor de pl\u00e1stico voluminoso en su pasillo. Saca su destornillador y quita la placa frontal y todo lo que ve dentro es una multitud de cables marrones, azules y verde-amarillo, que ni siquiera se parecen a los cables mostrados en los videos que vio en Am\u00e9rica. Esto sucedi\u00f3 porque el cableado en el Reino Unido est\u00e1 regido por sus propias normas, a diferencia de Am\u00e9rica.<\/p>\n<p>En esta gu\u00eda descubrir\u00e1 todo sobre el cableado de interruptores de luz en el Reino Unido, incluyendo c\u00f3digos de colores (antiguos y nuevos), significado de diferentes terminales, cableado de un interruptor unipolar, cableado de un par de interruptores bipolares y cableado de un interruptor intermedio. Encontrar\u00e1 medidas de seguridad a tomar antes de hacer cualquier cosa y sabr\u00e1 cu\u00e1ndo es mejor llamar a un electricista especializado para que realice el trabajo por usted.<\/p>\n<blockquote><p><strong>Respuesta r\u00e1pida:<\/strong> Se han introducido colores modernos en los interruptores de luz del Reino Unido, y siguen la norma BS 7671: marr\u00f3n = fase, azul = neutro, y verde\/amarillo = tierra. En un interruptor unipolar, el cable de fase permanente (marr\u00f3n) se conecta al terminal COM, mientras que el cable de fase (que va a la luz) se conecta al terminal L1. El cable de tierra debe conectarse al terminal de tierra (si est\u00e1 disponible), y la placa met\u00e1lica debe estar tambi\u00e9n conectada a tierra. Siempre a\u00edsle el circuito desde la unidad de consumo y verifique que el circuito est\u00e9 muerto usando el comprobador de voltaje antes de tocarlo \u2013 no dependa de que el interruptor est\u00e9 \u201capagado.\u201d En el caso de un interruptor bipolar, se a\u00f1adir\u00e1 un terminal L2 junto con un cable strapper entre ambos interruptores. Si es un interruptor intermedio, entonces hay un tercer terminal tambi\u00e9n. Dado que reemplazar el interruptor de luz se considera que no es notificado bajo la Parte P, todas las dem\u00e1s instrucciones deben tenerse en cuenta siguiendo la BS 7671.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<h2>Seguridad Primero: Aislar y Comprobar que est\u00e1 Muerto<\/h2>\n<p>Antes de tomar cualquier acci\u00f3n, asegure primero la seguridad del circuito. Esto no es solo una opci\u00f3n, la seguridad marca la diferencia entre una tarea simple y un viaje al hospital.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7299\" src=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Safety-First-Isolate-Prove-Dead.webp\" alt=\"Safety First: Isolate &amp; Prove Dead\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Apague el circuito en la caja de fusibles. Encuentre el interruptor autom\u00e1tico o fusible apropiado que corresponda al circuito que est\u00e1 fallando, o si tiene dudas, apague el interruptor principal.<\/li>\n<li>Confirme que el comprobador de voltaje funciona. Antes de comenzar a probar el circuito que ha sido desenergizado, aseg\u00farese de que el comprobador funcione aplic\u00e1ndolo a una fuente de energ\u00eda conocida y activa.<\/li>\n<li>Pruebe todos los conductores en la caja del interruptor. Use el comprobador en todos los terminales combinados, incluyendo COM, L1, L2 y el terminal de tierra, y aseg\u00farese de que todos marquen cero voltios.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Instale un candado o una etiqueta. Coloque una nota en el interruptor autom\u00e1tico para indicar que estar\u00e1 trabajando, para que nadie vuelva a encender el circuito mientras usted trabaja. Use las herramientas el\u00e9ctricas de manera adecuada, y en caso de que est\u00e9 cambiando el interruptor en cualquier lugar, aproveche para verificar si hay cables quemados.<\/p>\n<h2>Herramientas y Materiales que Necesita<\/h2>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Herramienta \/ Material<\/th>\n<th>Por qu\u00e9 la Necesita<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>Comprobador de voltaje (probador bipolar o mult\u00edmetro)<\/td>\n<td>Para comprobar que el circuito est\u00e1 muerto antes de tocar los cables<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Destornilladores aislados (plano + Phillips)<\/td>\n<td>Para tornillos de terminal y tornillos de la placa frontal<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Pelacables<\/td>\n<td>Para pelar 10\u201312 mm de aislamiento de los conductores<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Cinta \/ funda de PVC marr\u00f3n<\/td>\n<td>Para cubrir cualquier conductor no marr\u00f3n usado como fase (conmutada)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Nivel de burbuja<\/td>\n<td>Para que la nueva placa frontal quede recta<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Interruptor de repuesto<\/td>\n<td>Clasificado para el circuito (t\u00edpicamente 10A o 16A para iluminaci\u00f3n)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Linterna \/ l\u00e1mpara frontal<\/td>\n<td>Las cajas de interruptores rara vez est\u00e1n bien iluminadas<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<h2>Colores de cableado en el Reino Unido: Nuevo vs Antiguo<\/h2>\n<p>En 2004, el Reino Unido armoniz\u00f3 sus colores de cableado con Europa, lo que significa que todas las nuevas instalaciones tendr\u00edan que utilizar los colores nuevos a partir de 2006. Por lo tanto, si su hogar fue cableado antes de ese a\u00f1o, puede esperar encontrar los colores antiguos.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7300\" src=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/UK-Wiring-Colours-New-vs-Old.webp\" alt=\"Colores de cableado en el Reino Unido: Nuevo vs Antiguo\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" \/><\/p>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Conductor<\/th>\n<th>Color moderno (post-2004)<\/th>\n<th>Color antiguo (pre-2004)<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>Fase (l\u00ednea)<\/td>\n<td><strong>Reino Unido \/ IEC (BS 7671, Actual)<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>Rojo<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>L\u00ednea (fase entrante, siempre viva)<\/td>\n<td><strong>Marr\u00f3n<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>Negro<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Tierra (CPC)<\/td>\n<td><strong>Verde\/amarillo<\/strong> (a rayas)<\/td>\n<td>Verde (pre-1977), luego verde\/amarillo<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Fase conmutada (marcada)<\/td>\n<td>Azul o negro <em>cubierto con marr\u00f3n<\/em><\/td>\n<td>Negro cubierto con rojo<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>La regulaci\u00f3n m\u00e1s importante es: cualquier cable que no sea de color marr\u00f3n, pero que lleve tensi\u00f3n activa debe estar cubierto o con cinta marr\u00f3n en ambos extremos. En los sistemas de iluminaci\u00f3n del Reino Unido, la l\u00ednea del cable que baja hasta el interruptor tiene un cable azul (antes negro), que est\u00e1 encendido; lo que significa que no es un cable neutro. Para un an\u00e1lisis m\u00e1s profundo del sistema completo de colores, nuestra gu\u00eda sobre <a href=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/es\/blog\/colours-of-electric-wires-uk\/\" rel=\"nofollow\">colores de los cables el\u00e9ctricos en el Reino Unido<\/a> cubre cada conductor y la transici\u00f3n de antiguo a nuevo en detalle.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"terminals\">Entendiendo los terminales del interruptor: COM, L1, L2<\/h2>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>COM (Com\u00fan): La entrada de alimentaci\u00f3n. El cable activo constante (marr\u00f3n) est\u00e1 conectado a este terminal y siempre est\u00e1 energizado cuando el interruptor autom\u00e1tico est\u00e1 activado.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>L1: La salida de la luz conmutada. Se energiza solo cuando el interruptor est\u00e1 ENCENDIDO. Normalmente, en instalaciones con un solo interruptor, esta es la \u00fanica salida que se usa.<\/li>\n<li>L2: La segunda salida usada en sistemas de conmutaci\u00f3n avanzados como sistemas de dos v\u00edas o intermedios. En instalaciones con un solo interruptor, permanece sin usar.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Tenga en cuenta que diferentes fabricantes etiquetan los terminales de manera diferente, por ejemplo, algunos usan C en lugar de COM o L1\/L2\/L3 para su interruptor intermedio. Pero el principio b\u00e1sico siempre es el mismo: COM\/C es la entrada de alimentaci\u00f3n, mientras que los terminales L son salidas conmutadas. Siempre consulte el diagrama de cableado antes de la instalaci\u00f3n. Si alguna vez se ha preguntado qu\u00e9 significan esas marcas, nuestra explicaci\u00f3n de <a href=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/es\/blog\/what-does-common-mean-on-a-light-switch\/\" rel=\"nofollow\">qu\u00e9 significa \u201ccom\u00fan\u201d en un interruptor de luz<\/a> explica COM\/L1\/L2 con diagramas.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"one-way\">C\u00f3mo cablear un interruptor de luz unipolar<\/h2>\n<p>A one-way switch controls a single light from one location \u2014 the most common setup in UK homes. Here&#8217;s the full step-by-step:<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7301\" src=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/How-to-Wire-a-One-Way-Light-Switch.webp\" alt=\"C\u00f3mo cablear un interruptor de luz unipolar\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Isolate the circuit and ascertain that it has indeed become dead (refer to Safety First above).<\/li>\n<li>Unscrew the old switch and carefully pull it away from the wall. Make sure to take a photo or write down precisely where each wire went before disconnecting anything.<\/li>\n<li>Identify the wires. In a standard loop-in ceiling circuit in the UK, you would encounter:<br \/>\nThe permanent live \u2014 brown (more modern) or red (older) supply<br \/>\nSwitched live \u2014 blue (or old black) wire sleeved brown, traveling up into the light fitting<br \/>\nEarth \u2014 green\/yellow; this is present in metal boxes and for metal faceplates<\/li>\n<li>Prepare the wires. Strip approximately 10mm to 12mm of insulation off the ends of each conductor. If the blue\/black switched live is not already sleeved brown, add a brown sleeve or tape to both ends at this point.<\/li>\n<li>Connect them to the new switch thus:<br \/>\nPermanent live (brown\/red) \u2192 COM terminal<br \/>\nSwitched live (blue\/black, brown-sleeved) \u2192 L1 terminal<br \/>\nEarth (green\/yellow) \u2192 earth terminal (mandatory for metal faceplates; also connect it in plastic boxes if present)<\/li>\n<li>Tighten each terminal, then snag each with yourself testing it with tenderness \u2014 loose connections are among the major causes of arcing, which melts the switch or causes flickering.<\/li>\n<li>Carefully tuck the wires in going concertina-style, so they don&#8217;t pinch against the back box, and screw the faceplate in when it is level.<\/li>\n<li>Restore the power and check. The light should, without a hitch, go on and off. Should it fail or trip the circuit, isolate again and re-check your connections.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>How to Wire Two-Way Switching<\/h2>\n<p>In two-way switching circuits, one switch controls a single light from two different locations, such as the top and bottom of a set of stairs. This arrangement uses two two-way switches, which incorporate COM, L1, and L2, connected via a 3-core-and-earth cable which consists of two \u201cstrapper\u201d wires and the earth wire.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>The connections at Switch 1 are permanent live (brown\/red) connected to COM with two strapper wires, usually brown and grey from the 3-core cable, connected to L1 and L2 respectively. The two strapper wires connect L1 and L2 of switch 1 to L1 and L2 of switch 2 respectively.<\/li>\n<li>Switch 2 has the outgoing switched live (going to the light fitting) connected to COM and the strapper wires connected to L1 and L2 respectively.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Make sure any strapper that is not brown is sleeved brown to indicate it carries live potential. It is easy to remember that electricity enters Switch 1 at COM, is switched off at Switch 1, and travels between L1 and L2 pairs, connected together at Switch 1 and Switch 2 respectively.<\/p>\n<h2>Intermediate Switching (Three or More Locations)<\/h2>\n<p>An intermediate switch introduces a third (or maybe even a fourth) switch, including one that operates a landing light from the hallway, ground level, and upstairs. This is arranged as follows:<\/p>\n<p>Two two-way switches are set up (wired in the same manner as previously);One or more intermediate switches are included in the arrangement;An intermediate switch comes with four terminals (which are designated either as L1 and L2 or L3 and L4 or some twinning) and acts as a crossing point for the two traveler wires that come from the first switch and reach the second switch after passing through the middle one.<\/p>\n<p>Unlike two-way switches, an intermediate switch has nothing to do with the power supply or the light switched. Intermediate wiring is one of those steps in the process that many DIY enthusiasts find hard to achieve. If the diagram inside the switch doesn&#8217;t correspond to what you see in the switch box, it is better to call for help from an electrician as this job is both rather simple for him and extremely complicated for an amateur. Also, it is important to know the type of switch that you are working with.Our guide to the <a href=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/es\/blog\/types-of-light-switch\/\" rel=\"nofollow\">tipos de interruptores de luz<\/a> shows how one-way, two-way, and intermediate switches differ in appearance and terminal layout.<\/p>\n<h2>Common Scenarios &amp; What You&#8217;ll See in the Box<\/h2>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Scenario<\/th>\n<th>What&#8217;s likely in the box<\/th>\n<th>What to do<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>Single switch, one cable<\/td>\n<td>Brown (permanent live) + blue\/black sleeved brown (switched live) + earth<\/td>\n<td>One-way wiring: live \u2192 COM, switched live \u2192 L1<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Single switch, two cables<\/td>\n<td>Loop-in circuit: incoming supply + outgoing cable to next light<\/td>\n<td>Two live wires joined (connector) or to COM; switched live \u2192 L1. Often needs a connector block for the neutrals<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Two switches for one light<\/td>\n<td>Two two-way switches with strappers<\/td>\n<td>Two-way wiring as above<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Three or more switches<\/td>\n<td>Two-way ends + intermediate middle<\/td>\n<td>Intermediate wiring as above<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Old red\/black wiring<\/td>\n<td>Red (live), black (neutral\/switched live), green\/yellow (earth)<\/td>\n<td>Treat red as brown; sleeve black used as live with red tape; verify with tester<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<h2>Wiring Mistakes to Avoid<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Confusing a switched live with a neutral wire. Generally, the blue wire found in the box is switched live and the neutral wire. Connecting the former as a neutral or vice versa causes shorts or lights that may not work.<\/li>\n<li>Not using a sleeve to cover the switched live brown wire. This is a safety issue and will assist future users of the circuit.<\/li>\n<li>Exposing too much copper wire. Only strip enough wire for the connection to form (10-12cm will suffice); bare copper wires can create shorts when coming into contact with other terminals.<\/li>\n<li>Loose connections. Make sure to tug test each connection. Connections may arc and spark causing fires.<\/li>\n<li>Not earthed plate. If you have no earth wire in your junction box and connect a metal face plate, this could result in electric shocks.<\/li>\n<li>Working on an active circuit. Don&#8217;t operate with power on; take a safer route.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>When to Call a Professional Electrician<\/h2>\n<p>Replacing a light switch is often seen as a feasible DIY task but you should stop and contact a licensed electrician in the following scenarios:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>You open the junction box and have no idea what you&#8217;re looking at<\/li>\n<li>You find damage to the insulation or evidence of overheating<\/li>\n<li>You have a metal junction box or faceplate but no earth wire<\/li>\n<li>You need to install new wiring, modify an existing switch, or have to add new points<\/li>\n<li>You&#8217;ve got a dimmer switch, or a smart switch and don&#8217;t know about its compatibility or function<\/li>\n<li>Your circuit breaker keeps tripping as you worked on it<\/li>\n<li>You want an electrical installation certificate<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>An electrician will charge anything from \u00a350 to \u00a390 per hour to fix small jobs and replacing a light switch usually is a quick call-out, which is basically cheap insurance compared to the consequences of a fire or an injury.<\/p>\n<h2>UK Regulations: Part P, BS 7671 &amp; Testing<\/h2>\n<p>All electrical installation work in England and Wales has to conform to Part P of the Building Regulations, as well as the building and installation requirements of BS 7671 (the IET Wiring Regulations). The good news for those who do electrical work as DIY is that replacing a light switch is seen as minor work and therefore doesn\u2019t need to be reported to the local authority \u2013 although it must still comply with BS 7671, and the job needs signing off.If you ever wish to sell or rent the property, having the work certified helps avoid complications in the future.<\/p>\n<h2>Preguntas frecuentes<\/h2>\n<h3>Which wires go where in a light switch?<\/h3>\n<p>Connecting wires in a UK single switch light is a relatively simple affair. The live wire in a single switch connection should be connected to the COM terminal, while the switched live wire is connected to L1. The earth wire should also be connected to the earth terminal if the face plate or box is metallic in quality. In a two-way switch connection, the COM terminal carries the live at one end and the right switched live wire at the other terminal, while the L1 and L2 connectors are connected through strapper wires. Never forget to check the diagram on the switch before wiring and turning on the circuit.<\/p>\n<h3>Does it matter which wires go where on a light switch?<\/h3>\n<p>Yes, that does matter. The permanent live must go to the COM\/common terminal and the switched live to L1 (single pole). If the two are swapped the switch seems to work, but the light side remains live even when the switch is off\u2014creating an electric shock risk for the person changing the bulb. If the travelers are at the wrong leads at two-way and intermediate circuits, the light will only function when both switches are in a certain position. Acting as if the blue switched live is neutral will produce a short circuit if the circuit is switched on. If you are ever in doubt as to which wire is which, do not hesitate to call the electrician.<\/p>\n<h3>What happens if you wire a light switch the wrong way?<\/h3>\n<p>It is related to the complication involved. The easiest case is when the switch works but leaves the circuit \u201clive\u201d at all times. This is dangerous when attempting to change the bulb. Possibly more serious is switching a hot lead into the neutral socket, or connecting the wires incorrectly, leading to the short circuit which may cause the circuit breaker to turn off the supply \u2014 and if the protection does not work or if the cable is damaged, this may foster arcing and overheating, as well as fire. An improper connection may also cause the switch to flicker, hum, and become heated.<\/p>\n<h2>Referencias<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/electrical.theiet.org\/wiring-matters\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">IET \u2014 Wiring Matters: BS 7671 guidance and wiring regulations resources<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.gov.uk\/government\/publications\/part-p-of-the-building-regulations\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">GOV.UK \u2014 Part P of the Building Regulations (England and Wales)<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.niceic.com\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">NICEIC \u2014 competent person schemes and electrical safety guidance<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/engineerfix.com\/uk-light-switch-wiring-diagram-and-step-by-step-guide\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">EngineerFix \u2014 UK Light Switch Wiring Diagram and Step-by-Step Guide<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.easyhomeimprovement.co.uk\/how-should-a-light-switch-be-wired-in-the-uk\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Easy Home Improvement \u2014 How Should a Light Switch Be Wired in the UK?<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.homebuilding.co.uk\/advice\/how-to-wire-a-light-switch\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Homebuilding &amp; Renovating \u2014 How to Wire a Light Switch<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.which.co.uk\/reviews\/electricians\/article\/electricians\/find-a-good-electrician\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Which? \u2014 finding a qualified electrician and consumer safety advice<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Conclusi\u00f3n<\/h2>\n<p>Wiring a light switch in the UK is something that can be done quite easily without any major risks if you follow a few rules: switch off the circuit at the distribution box, verify that it is indeed off using a voltage tester, learn the wiring color codes: brown for live wire, blue for neutral, green\/yellow for earth (also, it is important to remember the switched live wire).<\/p>\n<p>Your best bet for wiring is to keep it simple, take a picture of the old wiring before you start unwiring anything, do a tug-test on the connectors, earth the metallic faceplate, and don\u2019t try working with a dead circuit! If you happen to run into any issues like wiring being older than what is indicated in any wiring books, colors not being what they are supposed to be, lack of earthing, wires being damaged, or anything else that doesn\u2019t match the wiring textbook, you should definitely call a professional electrician!<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>You have acquired a new light switch\u2014perhaps a brushed steel rocker that is going to replace your old cumbersome plastic switch in your hallway. You take out your screwdriver and remove the faceplate and all you see inside is a multitude of brown, blue, and green-yellow wires, which do not even closely resemble the wires [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7302,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_gspb_post_css":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7298","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blogs"],"blocksy_meta":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7298","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7298"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7298\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7305,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7298\/revisions\/7305"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7302"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7298"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7298"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7298"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}