{"id":7298,"date":"2026-08-12T18:52:21","date_gmt":"2026-08-12T18:52:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/?p=7298"},"modified":"2026-08-12T18:52:23","modified_gmt":"2026-08-12T18:52:23","slug":"how-to-wire-a-light-switch-uk","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/blog\/how-to-wire-a-light-switch-uk\/","title":{"rendered":"Comment c\u00e2bler un interrupteur au Royaume-Uni : guide \u00e9tape par \u00e9tape"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Vous avez acquis un nouvel interrupteur\u2014peut-\u00eatre un basculeur en acier bross\u00e9 qui va remplacer votre ancien interrupteur en plastique encombrant dans votre couloir. Vous sortez votre tournevis et retirez la plaque de recouvrement et tout ce que vous voyez \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur est une multitude de fils marron, bleu et vert-jaune, qui ne ressemblent m\u00eame pas de pr\u00e8s aux fils d\u00e9montr\u00e9s dans les vid\u00e9os que vous avez regard\u00e9es aux \u00c9tats-Unis. Cela s\u2019explique par le fait que le c\u00e2blage au Royaume-Uni est r\u00e9gi par ses propres r\u00e8gles, contrairement aux \u00c9tats-Unis.<\/p>\n<p>Dans ce guide, vous d\u00e9couvrirez tout sur le c\u00e2blage des interrupteurs au Royaume-Uni, y compris les codes couleur (anciens et nouveaux), la signification des diff\u00e9rents bornes, le c\u00e2blage d\u2019un interrupteur unipolaire, le c\u00e2blage d\u2019une paire d\u2019interrupteurs bipolaires et le c\u00e2blage d\u2019un interrupteur interm\u00e9diaire. Vous trouverez les mesures de s\u00e9curit\u00e9 \u00e0 prendre avant toute intervention et saurez quand il est pr\u00e9f\u00e9rable d\u2019appeler un \u00e9lectricien sp\u00e9cialis\u00e9 pour effectuer le travail.<\/p>\n<blockquote><p><strong>R\u00e9ponse rapide :<\/strong> Des couleurs modernes ont \u00e9t\u00e9 introduites dans les interrupteurs au Royaume-Uni, et elles suivent la norme BS 7671 : marron = phase, bleu = neutre, et vert\/jaune = terre. Dans un interrupteur unipolaire, le fil de phase permanent (marron) est c\u00e2bl\u00e9 \u00e0 la borne COM, tandis que le fil de phase (qui va vers la lampe) est connect\u00e9 \u00e0 la borne L1. Le fil de terre doit \u00eatre c\u00e2bl\u00e9 \u00e0 la borne de terre (si disponible), et la plaque m\u00e9tallique doit \u00e9galement \u00eatre mise \u00e0 la terre. Isolez toujours le circuit depuis le tableau de distribution et v\u00e9rifiez que le circuit est hors tension \u00e0 l\u2019aide d\u2019un testeur de tension avant de le toucher \u2013 ne comptez pas sur le fait que l\u2019interrupteur soit \u201c \u00e9teint \u201d. Dans le cas d\u2019un interrupteur bipolaire, il y aura une borne L2 suppl\u00e9mentaire ainsi qu\u2019un fil navette entre les deux interrupteurs. S\u2019il s\u2019agit d\u2019un interrupteur interm\u00e9diaire, une troisi\u00e8me borne est \u00e9galement pr\u00e9sente. Puisque le remplacement de l\u2019interrupteur est consid\u00e9r\u00e9 comme non d\u00e9clarable selon la Partie P, toutes les autres instructions doivent \u00eatre respect\u00e9es en suivant la norme BS 7671.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<h2>S\u00e9curit\u00e9 avant tout : Isoler et v\u00e9rifier l\u2019absence de tension<\/h2>\n<p>Avant toute intervention, assurez-vous d\u2019abord de la s\u00e9curit\u00e9 du circuit. Ce n\u2019est pas une option, la s\u00e9curit\u00e9 fait la diff\u00e9rence entre une t\u00e2che simple et un passage \u00e0 l\u2019h\u00f4pital.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7299\" src=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Safety-First-Isolate-Prove-Dead.webp\" alt=\"Safety First: Isolate &amp; Prove Dead\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Coupez le circuit dans le tableau \u00e9lectrique. Trouvez le disjoncteur ou le fusible appropri\u00e9 correspondant au circuit d\u00e9fectueux, ou en cas de doute, coupez le disjoncteur principal.<\/li>\n<li>V\u00e9rifiez que le testeur de tension fonctionne. Avant de commencer \u00e0 tester le circuit hors tension, assurez-vous que le testeur fonctionne en l\u2019appliquant sur une source d\u2019alimentation connue sous tension.<\/li>\n<li>Testez tous les conducteurs dans la bo\u00eete d\u2019interrupteur. Utilisez le testeur sur toutes les bornes, y compris COM, L1, L2 et la borne de terre, et assurez-vous que toutes indiquent z\u00e9ro volt.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Installez un verrou ou une \u00e9tiquette. Mettez une note sur le disjoncteur pour indiquer que vous travaillez afin que personne ne remette le circuit sous tension pendant votre intervention. Utilisez les outils \u00e9lectriques de mani\u00e8re appropri\u00e9e, et si vous changez l\u2019interrupteur, profitez-en pour v\u00e9rifier s\u2019il y a des c\u00e2bles br\u00fbl\u00e9s.<\/p>\n<h2>Outils et mat\u00e9riaux n\u00e9cessaires<\/h2>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Outil \/ Mat\u00e9riel<\/th>\n<th>Pourquoi vous en avez besoin<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>Testeur de tension (testeur bipolaire ou multim\u00e8tre)<\/td>\n<td>Pour prouver que le circuit est hors tension avant de toucher les fils<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Tournevis isol\u00e9s (plat + Phillips)<\/td>\n<td>Pour les vis de bornier et les vis de plaque de finition<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>D\u00e9nudeurs de fils<\/td>\n<td>Pour d\u00e9nuder 10\u201312 mm d\u2019isolant des conducteurs<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Ruban \/ gaine isolante en PVC marron<\/td>\n<td>Pour ga\u00eener tout conducteur non marron utilis\u00e9 comme phase (commut\u00e9e)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Niveau \u00e0 bulle<\/td>\n<td>Pour que la nouvelle plaque de finition soit bien droite<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Interrupteur de remplacement<\/td>\n<td>Adapt\u00e9 au circuit (typiquement 10A ou 16A pour l\u2019\u00e9clairage)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Torche \/ lampe frontale<\/td>\n<td>Les bo\u00eetes d\u2019interrupteurs sont rarement bien \u00e9clair\u00e9es<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<h2>Couleurs de c\u00e2blage au Royaume-Uni : Nouveau vs Ancien<\/h2>\n<p>En 2004, le Royaume-Uni a harmonis\u00e9 ses couleurs de c\u00e2blage avec l\u2019Europe, ce qui signifie que toutes les nouvelles installations devaient utiliser les nouvelles couleurs \u00e0 partir de 2006. Ainsi, si votre domicile a \u00e9t\u00e9 c\u00e2bl\u00e9 avant cette ann\u00e9e, vous pouvez vous attendre \u00e0 trouver les anciennes couleurs.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7300\" src=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/UK-Wiring-Colours-New-vs-Old.webp\" alt=\"Couleurs de c\u00e2blage au Royaume-Uni : Nouveau vs Ancien\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" \/><\/p>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Conducteur<\/th>\n<th>Couleur moderne (post-2004)<\/th>\n<th>Couleur ancienne (pr\u00e9-2004)<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>Phase (ligne)<\/td>\n<td><strong>Marron<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>Rouge<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Neutre<\/td>\n<td><strong>Bleu<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>Noir<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Terre (CPC)<\/td>\n<td><strong>Vert\/jaune<\/strong> (ray\u00e9)<\/td>\n<td>Vert (pr\u00e9-1977), puis vert\/jaune<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Phase commut\u00e9e (marqu\u00e9e)<\/td>\n<td>Bleu ou noir <em>gain\u00e9 de marron<\/em><\/td>\n<td>Noir gain\u00e9 de rouge<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>La r\u00e9glementation la plus importante est la suivante : tout fil qui n\u2019est pas de couleur marron, mais qui transporte une tension sous tension doit \u00eatre recouvert ou rubann\u00e9 en marron \u00e0 ses deux extr\u00e9mit\u00e9s. Dans les syst\u00e8mes d\u2019\u00e9clairage du Royaume-Uni, la phase du c\u00e2ble descendant vers l\u2019interrupteur est un fil bleu (anciennement noir), qui est activ\u00e9 ; ce qui signifie qu\u2019il ne s\u2019agit pas d\u2019un fil neutre. Pour une analyse approfondie du syst\u00e8me complet des couleurs, notre guide <a href=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/blog\/colours-of-electric-wires-uk\/\" rel=\"nofollow\">les couleurs des fils \u00e9lectriques au Royaume-Uni<\/a> couvre en d\u00e9tail chaque conducteur et la transition de l\u2019ancien au nouveau.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"terminals\">Comprendre les bornes d\u2019interrupteur : COM, L1, L2<\/h2>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>COM (Commun) : L\u2019entr\u00e9e d\u2019alimentation. Le fil phase constant (marron) est connect\u00e9 \u00e0 cette borne et il est toujours sous tension lorsque le disjoncteur est activ\u00e9.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>L1 : La sortie de la lumi\u00e8re commut\u00e9e. Elle est aliment\u00e9e uniquement lorsque l\u2019interrupteur est ON. Normalement, dans les installations \u00e0 un seul interrupteur, c\u2019est la seule sortie utilis\u00e9e.<\/li>\n<li>L2 : La deuxi\u00e8me sortie utilis\u00e9e dans les syst\u00e8mes de commutation avanc\u00e9s tels que les syst\u00e8mes va-et-vient ou interm\u00e9diaires. Dans les installations \u00e0 un seul interrupteur, elle reste inutilis\u00e9e.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Sachez que diff\u00e9rents fabricants \u00e9tiquettent les bornes diff\u00e9remment, par exemple certains utilisent C au lieu de COM ou L1\/L2\/L3 pour leur interrupteur interm\u00e9diaire. Mais le principe de base est toujours le m\u00eame : COM\/C est l\u2019entr\u00e9e d\u2019alimentation, tandis que les bornes L sont des sorties commut\u00e9es. R\u00e9f\u00e9rez-vous toujours au sch\u00e9ma de c\u00e2blage avant l\u2019installation. Si vous vous \u00eates d\u00e9j\u00e0 demand\u00e9 ce que signifient ces marquages, notre explication de <a href=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/blog\/what-does-common-mean-on-a-light-switch\/\" rel=\"nofollow\">ce que signifie \u201c commun \u201d sur un interrupteur<\/a> explique COM\/L1\/L2 avec des sch\u00e9mas.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"one-way\">Comment c\u00e2bler un interrupteur unipolaire<\/h2>\n<p>A one-way switch controls a single light from one location \u2014 the most common setup in UK homes. Here&#8217;s the full step-by-step:<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7301\" src=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/How-to-Wire-a-One-Way-Light-Switch.webp\" alt=\"Comment c\u00e2bler un interrupteur unipolaire\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Isolate the circuit and ascertain that it has indeed become dead (refer to Safety First above).<\/li>\n<li>Unscrew the old switch and carefully pull it away from the wall. Make sure to take a photo or write down precisely where each wire went before disconnecting anything.<\/li>\n<li>Identify the wires. In a standard loop-in ceiling circuit in the UK, you would encounter:<br \/>\nThe permanent live \u2014 brown (more modern) or red (older) supply<br \/>\nSwitched live \u2014 blue (or old black) wire sleeved brown, traveling up into the light fitting<br \/>\nEarth \u2014 green\/yellow; this is present in metal boxes and for metal faceplates<\/li>\n<li>Prepare the wires. Strip approximately 10mm to 12mm of insulation off the ends of each conductor. If the blue\/black switched live is not already sleeved brown, add a brown sleeve or tape to both ends at this point.<\/li>\n<li>Connect them to the new switch thus:<br \/>\nPermanent live (brown\/red) \u2192 COM terminal<br \/>\nSwitched live (blue\/black, brown-sleeved) \u2192 L1 terminal<br \/>\nEarth (green\/yellow) \u2192 earth terminal (mandatory for metal faceplates; also connect it in plastic boxes if present)<\/li>\n<li>Tighten each terminal, then snag each with yourself testing it with tenderness \u2014 loose connections are among the major causes of arcing, which melts the switch or causes flickering.<\/li>\n<li>Carefully tuck the wires in going concertina-style, so they don&#8217;t pinch against the back box, and screw the faceplate in when it is level.<\/li>\n<li>Restore the power and check. The light should, without a hitch, go on and off. Should it fail or trip the circuit, isolate again and re-check your connections.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>How to Wire Two-Way Switching<\/h2>\n<p>In two-way switching circuits, one switch controls a single light from two different locations, such as the top and bottom of a set of stairs. This arrangement uses two two-way switches, which incorporate COM, L1, and L2, connected via a 3-core-and-earth cable which consists of two \u201cstrapper\u201d wires and the earth wire.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>The connections at Switch 1 are permanent live (brown\/red) connected to COM with two strapper wires, usually brown and grey from the 3-core cable, connected to L1 and L2 respectively. The two strapper wires connect L1 and L2 of switch 1 to L1 and L2 of switch 2 respectively.<\/li>\n<li>Switch 2 has the outgoing switched live (going to the light fitting) connected to COM and the strapper wires connected to L1 and L2 respectively.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Make sure any strapper that is not brown is sleeved brown to indicate it carries live potential. It is easy to remember that electricity enters Switch 1 at COM, is switched off at Switch 1, and travels between L1 and L2 pairs, connected together at Switch 1 and Switch 2 respectively.<\/p>\n<h2>Intermediate Switching (Three or More Locations)<\/h2>\n<p>An intermediate switch introduces a third (or maybe even a fourth) switch, including one that operates a landing light from the hallway, ground level, and upstairs. This is arranged as follows:<\/p>\n<p>Two two-way switches are set up (wired in the same manner as previously);One or more intermediate switches are included in the arrangement;An intermediate switch comes with four terminals (which are designated either as L1 and L2 or L3 and L4 or some twinning) and acts as a crossing point for the two traveler wires that come from the first switch and reach the second switch after passing through the middle one.<\/p>\n<p>Unlike two-way switches, an intermediate switch has nothing to do with the power supply or the light switched. Intermediate wiring is one of those steps in the process that many DIY enthusiasts find hard to achieve. If the diagram inside the switch doesn&#8217;t correspond to what you see in the switch box, it is better to call for help from an electrician as this job is both rather simple for him and extremely complicated for an amateur. Also, it is important to know the type of switch that you are working with.Our guide to the <a href=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/blog\/types-of-light-switch\/\" rel=\"nofollow\">types d\u2019interrupteurs d\u2019\u00e9clairage<\/a> shows how one-way, two-way, and intermediate switches differ in appearance and terminal layout.<\/p>\n<h2>Common Scenarios &amp; What You&#8217;ll See in the Box<\/h2>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Scenario<\/th>\n<th>What&#8217;s likely in the box<\/th>\n<th>What to do<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>Single switch, one cable<\/td>\n<td>Brown (permanent live) + blue\/black sleeved brown (switched live) + earth<\/td>\n<td>One-way wiring: live \u2192 COM, switched live \u2192 L1<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Single switch, two cables<\/td>\n<td>Loop-in circuit: incoming supply + outgoing cable to next light<\/td>\n<td>Two live wires joined (connector) or to COM; switched live \u2192 L1. Often needs a connector block for the neutrals<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Two switches for one light<\/td>\n<td>Two two-way switches with strappers<\/td>\n<td>Two-way wiring as above<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Three or more switches<\/td>\n<td>Two-way ends + intermediate middle<\/td>\n<td>Intermediate wiring as above<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Old red\/black wiring<\/td>\n<td>Red (live), black (neutral\/switched live), green\/yellow (earth)<\/td>\n<td>Treat red as brown; sleeve black used as live with red tape; verify with tester<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<h2>Wiring Mistakes to Avoid<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Confusing a switched live with a neutral wire. Generally, the blue wire found in the box is switched live and the neutral wire. Connecting the former as a neutral or vice versa causes shorts or lights that may not work.<\/li>\n<li>Not using a sleeve to cover the switched live brown wire. This is a safety issue and will assist future users of the circuit.<\/li>\n<li>Exposing too much copper wire. Only strip enough wire for the connection to form (10-12cm will suffice); bare copper wires can create shorts when coming into contact with other terminals.<\/li>\n<li>Loose connections. Make sure to tug test each connection. Connections may arc and spark causing fires.<\/li>\n<li>Not earthed plate. If you have no earth wire in your junction box and connect a metal face plate, this could result in electric shocks.<\/li>\n<li>Working on an active circuit. Don&#8217;t operate with power on; take a safer route.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>When to Call a Professional Electrician<\/h2>\n<p>Replacing a light switch is often seen as a feasible DIY task but you should stop and contact a licensed electrician in the following scenarios:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>You open the junction box and have no idea what you&#8217;re looking at<\/li>\n<li>You find damage to the insulation or evidence of overheating<\/li>\n<li>You have a metal junction box or faceplate but no earth wire<\/li>\n<li>You need to install new wiring, modify an existing switch, or have to add new points<\/li>\n<li>You&#8217;ve got a dimmer switch, or a smart switch and don&#8217;t know about its compatibility or function<\/li>\n<li>Your circuit breaker keeps tripping as you worked on it<\/li>\n<li>You want an electrical installation certificate<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>An electrician will charge anything from \u00a350 to \u00a390 per hour to fix small jobs and replacing a light switch usually is a quick call-out, which is basically cheap insurance compared to the consequences of a fire or an injury.<\/p>\n<h2>UK Regulations: Part P, BS 7671 &amp; Testing<\/h2>\n<p>All electrical installation work in England and Wales has to conform to Part P of the Building Regulations, as well as the building and installation requirements of BS 7671 (the IET Wiring Regulations). The good news for those who do electrical work as DIY is that replacing a light switch is seen as minor work and therefore doesn\u2019t need to be reported to the local authority \u2013 although it must still comply with BS 7671, and the job needs signing off.If you ever wish to sell or rent the property, having the work certified helps avoid complications in the future.<\/p>\n<h2>Questions fr\u00e9quemment pos\u00e9es<\/h2>\n<h3>Which wires go where in a light switch?<\/h3>\n<p>Connecting wires in a UK single switch light is a relatively simple affair. The live wire in a single switch connection should be connected to the COM terminal, while the switched live wire is connected to L1. The earth wire should also be connected to the earth terminal if the face plate or box is metallic in quality. In a two-way switch connection, the COM terminal carries the live at one end and the right switched live wire at the other terminal, while the L1 and L2 connectors are connected through strapper wires. Never forget to check the diagram on the switch before wiring and turning on the circuit.<\/p>\n<h3>Does it matter which wires go where on a light switch?<\/h3>\n<p>Yes, that does matter. The permanent live must go to the COM\/common terminal and the switched live to L1 (single pole). If the two are swapped the switch seems to work, but the light side remains live even when the switch is off\u2014creating an electric shock risk for the person changing the bulb. If the travelers are at the wrong leads at two-way and intermediate circuits, the light will only function when both switches are in a certain position. Acting as if the blue switched live is neutral will produce a short circuit if the circuit is switched on. If you are ever in doubt as to which wire is which, do not hesitate to call the electrician.<\/p>\n<h3>What happens if you wire a light switch the wrong way?<\/h3>\n<p>It is related to the complication involved. The easiest case is when the switch works but leaves the circuit \u201clive\u201d at all times. This is dangerous when attempting to change the bulb. Possibly more serious is switching a hot lead into the neutral socket, or connecting the wires incorrectly, leading to the short circuit which may cause the circuit breaker to turn off the supply \u2014 and if the protection does not work or if the cable is damaged, this may foster arcing and overheating, as well as fire. An improper connection may also cause the switch to flicker, hum, and become heated.<\/p>\n<h2>R\u00e9f\u00e9rences<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/electrical.theiet.org\/wiring-matters\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">IET \u2014 Wiring Matters: BS 7671 guidance and wiring regulations resources<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.gov.uk\/government\/publications\/part-p-of-the-building-regulations\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">GOV.UK \u2014 Part P of the Building Regulations (England and Wales)<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.niceic.com\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">NICEIC \u2014 competent person schemes and electrical safety guidance<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/engineerfix.com\/uk-light-switch-wiring-diagram-and-step-by-step-guide\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">EngineerFix \u2014 UK Light Switch Wiring Diagram and Step-by-Step Guide<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.easyhomeimprovement.co.uk\/how-should-a-light-switch-be-wired-in-the-uk\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Easy Home Improvement \u2014 How Should a Light Switch Be Wired in the UK?<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.homebuilding.co.uk\/advice\/how-to-wire-a-light-switch\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Homebuilding &amp; Renovating \u2014 How to Wire a Light Switch<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.which.co.uk\/reviews\/electricians\/article\/electricians\/find-a-good-electrician\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Which? \u2014 finding a qualified electrician and consumer safety advice<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Conclusion<\/h2>\n<p>Wiring a light switch in the UK is something that can be done quite easily without any major risks if you follow a few rules: switch off the circuit at the distribution box, verify that it is indeed off using a voltage tester, learn the wiring color codes: brown for live wire, blue for neutral, green\/yellow for earth (also, it is important to remember the switched live wire).<\/p>\n<p>Your best bet for wiring is to keep it simple, take a picture of the old wiring before you start unwiring anything, do a tug-test on the connectors, earth the metallic faceplate, and don\u2019t try working with a dead circuit! If you happen to run into any issues like wiring being older than what is indicated in any wiring books, colors not being what they are supposed to be, lack of earthing, wires being damaged, or anything else that doesn\u2019t match the wiring textbook, you should definitely call a professional electrician!<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>You have acquired a new light switch\u2014perhaps a brushed steel rocker that is going to replace your old cumbersome plastic switch in your hallway. You take out your screwdriver and remove the faceplate and all you see inside is a multitude of brown, blue, and green-yellow wires, which do not even closely resemble the wires [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7302,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_gspb_post_css":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7298","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blogs"],"blocksy_meta":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7298","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7298"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7298\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7305,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7298\/revisions\/7305"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7302"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7298"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7298"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7298"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}