{"id":7416,"date":"2026-08-21T18:14:59","date_gmt":"2026-08-21T18:14:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/?p=7416"},"modified":"2026-08-21T18:15:01","modified_gmt":"2026-08-21T18:15:01","slug":"how-to-replace-a-light-switch-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/blog\/how-to-replace-a-light-switch-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Comment remplacer un interrupteur : guide \u00e9tape par \u00e9tape pour chaque type"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Si votre ancien interrupteur est cass\u00e9, ne fonctionne pas correctement, ou si vous souhaitez simplement passer \u00e0 un mod\u00e8le plus \u00e9l\u00e9gant pour votre cuisine, le remplacement d\u2019un interrupteur \u00e9lectrique est l\u2019une des t\u00e2ches de bricolage les plus gratifiantes et les plus simples que vous puissiez r\u00e9aliser. Le processus lui-m\u00eame est rapide et ne co\u00fbte pas plus que quelques euros pour les pi\u00e8ces n\u00e9cessaires, mais vous devez respecter les \u00e9tapes impliqu\u00e9es si vous souhaitez r\u00e9ussir. Le guide suivant explique toutes les \u00e9tapes n\u00e9cessaires : pr\u00e9paration, pr\u00e9cautions de s\u00e9curit\u00e9, retrait et installation appropri\u00e9s, diff\u00e9rences entre les diff\u00e9rents mod\u00e8les d\u2019interrupteurs, dommages courants lors du processus, et quand faire appel \u00e0 un \u00e9lectricien.<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>La r\u00e9ponse est oui, vous pouvez effectuer le remplacement de l\u2019interrupteur d\u2019\u00e9clairage vous-m\u00eame \u2014 ce n\u2019est pas un travail difficile pour quelqu\u2019un qui sait travailler avec soin : il suffit de couper votre disjoncteur, tester si la tension est coup\u00e9e, retirer l\u2019ancien interrupteur, prendre une photo du c\u00e2blage, d\u00e9connecter les fils, les ins\u00e9rer dans le nouvel interrupteur dans le m\u00eame ordre qu\u2019ils \u00e9taient dans l\u2019ancien interrupteur. Dans le cas d\u2019un interrupteur unipolaire, il n\u2019importe pas quels fils vont o\u00f9 ; dans le cas d\u2019un interrupteur va-et-vient, le commun et les navetteurs doivent \u00eatre positionn\u00e9s de la m\u00eame mani\u00e8re qu\u2019auparavant.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<h2>Que pr\u00e9parer avant de commencer<\/h2>\n<p>Assurez-vous de confirmer trois facteurs avant de commencer les travaux :<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>V\u00e9rifiez que le nouvel interrupteur est du m\u00eame type que l\u2019ancien ; un interrupteur unipolaire doit \u00eatre remplac\u00e9 par un autre interrupteur unipolaire ou un interrupteur va-et-vient par un autre interrupteur va-et-vient (sinon, vous devrez en savoir plus sur la configuration du c\u00e2blage).<\/li>\n<li>V\u00e9rifiez que le nouvel interrupteur s\u2019adaptera \u00e0 votre bo\u00eete \u00e9lectrique murale existante (notez que les interrupteurs intelligents et les variateurs sont plus grands que les interrupteurs conventionnels et que les interrupteurs ont une profondeur d\u2019environ 2,5 cm).<\/li>\n<li>Confirmez l\u2019emplacement du disjoncteur (identifiez quel circuit alimente l\u2019interrupteur sur lequel vous allez travailler et assurez-vous qu\u2019il est coup\u00e9).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Consid\u00e9rez \u00e9galement si vous remplacez un interrupteur par un autre du m\u00eame type (remplacement \u00e0 l\u2019identique) ou si vous effectuez une mise \u00e0 niveau ou passez d\u2019un interrupteur simple \u00e0 un variateur ou un interrupteur intelligent (ce qui aura des implications sur le c\u00e2blage, la compatibilit\u00e9 variateur\/charge et la pr\u00e9sence ou non d\u2019un fil neutre).<\/p>\n<h2>La liste compl\u00e8te des outils<\/h2>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Outil<\/th>\n<th>Pourquoi vous en avez besoin<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>Testeur de tension<\/strong> (sans contact ou multim\u00e8tre)<\/td>\n<td>L\u2019outil le plus important \u2014 v\u00e9rifier que l\u2019alimentation est coup\u00e9e<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>Tournevis plat<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>Retirer les vis de la plaque de recouvrement<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>Tournevis cruciforme<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>La plupart des vis de bornier d\u2019interrupteur<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>D\u00e9nudeur\/coupe-fil<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>D\u00e9nuder et couper les fils si n\u00e9cessaire<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>Pince \u00e0 bec effil\u00e9<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>Plier les crochets de fil et tirer les fils<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>T\u00e9l\u00e9phone\/appareil photo<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>Photographier le c\u00e2blage avant de d\u00e9connecter<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>Lampe de poche<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>Les bo\u00eetes sont sombres et peu profondes<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>Voil\u00e0 tout le kit \u2014 aucune comp\u00e9tence sp\u00e9ciale ni outil exotique n\u2019est requis pour un remplacement basique.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7418\" src=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/The-Rules-That-Never-Change.webp\" alt=\"The Rules That Never Change\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" \/><\/p>\n<h2>S\u00e9curit\u00e9 avant tout : les r\u00e8gles qui ne changent jamais<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Assurez-vous que le disjoncteur est coup\u00e9 \u2014 pas seulement l\u2019interrupteur. Identifiez l\u2019interrupteur depuis le tableau et coupez-le.<\/li>\n<li>V\u00e9rifiez que le circuit est inactif \u2014 utilisez le testeur de tension sur les fils avant de les toucher.<\/li>\n<li>Testez l\u2019appareil que vous comptez utiliser \u2014 assurez-vous que le testeur fonctionne sur une prise sous tension avant de continuer.<\/li>\n<li>Utilisez une main autant que possible dans la bo\u00eete \u2014 cela maintient votre autre main \u00e9loign\u00e9e des surfaces mises \u00e0 la terre.<\/li>\n<li>Si quelque chose semble inhabituel \u2014 par exemple, si l\u2019isolation est br\u00fbl\u00e9e ou si la bo\u00eete est coinc\u00e9e, arr\u00eatez le travail et appelez un \u00e9lectricien.<\/li>\n<li>Prenez votre temps \u2014 la principale cause d\u2019erreurs dans le c\u00e2blage est de ne pas examiner correctement les repr\u00e9sentations visuelles.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Identifiez d\u2019abord votre type d\u2019interrupteur<\/h2>\n<p>Ouvrez la plaque de recouvrement et regardez le c\u00e2blage avant d\u2019acheter quoi que ce soit :<\/p>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Type d'interrupteur<\/th>\n<th>Comment le reconna\u00eetre<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>Simple p\u00f4le (SPST)<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>2 bornes \u00e0 vis + terre ; contr\u00f4le la lumi\u00e8re depuis un seul emplacement<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>Va-et-vient<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>3 bornes \u00e0 vis (commune + 2 navetteurs) + terre ; deux interrupteurs contr\u00f4lent une lumi\u00e8re<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>Interrupteur va-et-vient \u00e0 4 fils<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>4 bornes ; trois interrupteurs ou plus contr\u00f4lent une lumi\u00e8re<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>Double-p\u00f4le (DPST)<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>4 bornes ; commute les deux phases d\u2019un circuit 240 V<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>Variateur<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>G\u00e9n\u00e9ralement 2 bornes + terre (ou 3 pour variateurs 3 voies) ; bouton\/curseur\/palette<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>Interrupteur intelligent<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>M\u00eame configuration de bornes + connexion neutre + antenne\/fils<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>Si vous n\u2019\u00eates pas s\u00fbr, comptez les bornes et prenez-les en photo \u2014 cette photo guidera tout le travail. En cas de doute sur ce que vous avez, notre guide <a href=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/blog\/what-are-the-four-types-of-light-switches\/\" rel=\"nofollow\">les quatre types d\u2019interrupteurs d\u2019\u00e9clairage<\/a> vous aide \u00e0 l\u2019identifier.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7419\" src=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Removing-the-Old-Switch.webp\" alt=\"Retrait de l\u2019ancien interrupteur\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" \/><\/p>\n<h2>Retrait de l\u2019ancien interrupteur<\/h2>\n<p>Une fois confirm\u00e9 qu\u2019il n\u2019y a pas d\u2019alimentation :<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Retirez la couverture : il y a g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement une ou deux vis ; souvenez-vous de leur emplacement.<\/li>\n<li>Prenez une photo du c\u00e2blage : c\u2019est l\u2019\u00e9tape souvent saut\u00e9e et que les gens regrettent ensuite ; montrez quel fil va \u00e0 quelle borne.<\/li>\n<li>Retirez l\u2019interrupteur en desserrant les vis en haut et en bas de l\u2019interrupteur (les vis servent \u00e0 fixer l\u2019interrupteur) ; tirez le corps de l\u2019interrupteur par les languettes.<\/li>\n<li>Identify the wires that the switch has: in the case of a single-pole switch, there are two wires attached to the brass terminals (line and load) and a ground (bare copper or green). There might be other wires in the box; the wires that are attached to the switch are the ones that are important.<\/li>\n<li>Disconnect the wires: loosen the screws and take off each wire. Make hooks straight, using pliers to help you.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Connecting the New Switch<\/h2>\n<p>For a regular single-pole switch (which is what most of us would be familiar with):<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Strip the wires if there is a need for it \u2014 approximately \u00bd to \u00be of an inch of bare copper wire (as was the case with the old switch).<\/li>\n<li>Make hooks \u2014 using pliers, bend every wire in the clockwise direction so that screws grab the wires when in the position of tightening.<\/li>\n<li>Join the two hot wires by connecting one of them to every brass terminal. The fact is that there is no right or wrong way to do this with a single-pole switch as with it you only have to open or close the circuit.<\/li>\n<li>Connect the ground wire \u2014 either bare copper wire or green wire should be connected with the green screw and if there is a pigtail ground, make sure to connect it there.<\/li>\n<li>Tighten screws well \u2014 they should not be loose; loose terminals are the main cause of overheating of switches.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Mounting &amp; Testing<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Put the wires in the box in such a manner that they are folded neatly, not crammed in. Keep the switches flat in position.<\/li>\n<li>Fasten the switches onto the box using a top and bottom screw in a straight and tight way.<\/li>\n<li>Attach the faceplate to the switches.<\/li>\n<li>Switch on the power at the breaker.<\/li>\n<li>Test the switch; if it has worked properly, then 3-way testing should be performed at both locations. If it does not work, or the breaker trips, switch off the power and double check the wiring to ensure it has been done correctly.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>How Each Switch Type Differs<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Dimmer: same two terminals as a single-pole, but check load compatibility \u2014 LED dimmers must be LED-rated, and the total wattage must be within the dimmer&#8217;s rating. Our <a href=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/blog\/led-dimmer-switch-compatibility\/\" rel=\"nofollow\">guide de compatibilit\u00e9 des variateurs LED<\/a> covers the matching logic.<\/li>\n<li>In the case of three-way switches, the common wire needs to be connected in the same manner as the wire used in the previous switch. Make sure you conduct tests in both locations after the installation.<\/li>\n<li>Smart switch: usually needs a neutral wire at the box (many modern boxes have one tucked behind) and a deeper box; some models need a hub. The <a href=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/blog\/neutral-vs-non-neutral-smart-switches\/\" rel=\"nofollow\">neutral vs non-neutral smart switch guide<\/a> explains what to look for before buying.<\/li>\n<li>For four-way switches, the same steps would apply except there is a higher number of wires involved. It is best to first capture the images of the wires so that there are fewer chances for errors in reconnection.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7420\" src=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Common-Mistakes-When-Changing-Switches.webp\" alt=\"Common Mistakes When Changing Switches\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" \/><\/p>\n<h2>Common Mistakes When Changing Switches<\/h2>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Mistake<\/th>\n<th>Result<\/th>\n<th>Prevention<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>Skipping the voltage test<\/td>\n<td>Shock risk<\/td>\n<td>Always verify dead with a tester<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>No photo before disconnecting<\/td>\n<td>Wrong rewiring, confusion<\/td>\n<td>Photograph the wiring first<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Loose terminal screws<\/td>\n<td>Hot switch, arcing, fire risk<\/td>\n<td>Snug every screw<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Wire hooks backwards (counterclockwise)<\/td>\n<td>Wires pop off under the screw<\/td>\n<td>Bend hooks clockwise<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Buying the wrong type (single-pole vs 3-way)<\/td>\n<td>Won&#8217;t work or dangerous<\/td>\n<td>Count terminals before buying<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Smart switch without a neutral<\/td>\n<td>Won&#8217;t power up<\/td>\n<td>Check the box for neutral first<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Forgetting the 3-way common terminal<\/td>\n<td>Switch doesn&#8217;t work right<\/td>\n<td>Match the photo exactly<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Overcrowding the box<\/td>\n<td>Won&#8217;t fit, pinched wires<\/td>\n<td>Fold wires neatly; bigger box if needed<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<h2>When to Call an Electrician<\/h2>\n<p>If you notice any of the following cases, take a break and consult with someone who knows about it.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Aluminum cables (silver wires marked AL) \u2013 require specific devices and installations.<\/li>\n<li>No earth wire in the metal box \u2013 with older systems, it is possible that grounding is non-existent.<\/li>\n<li>Burnt up insulation, black marks \u2013 indicative of a more serious issue.<\/li>\n<li>More wires than you anticipated or something that confuses you.<\/li>\n<li>Changing a 4-way switch or double-pole switch if you are in a state of doubt.<\/li>\n<li>If the breaker keeps tripping even after it has been changed, the issue is likely deeper than the switch.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Cost: DIY vs Electrician<\/h2>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Item<\/th>\n<th>Co\u00fbt<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>Standard single-pole switch<\/td>\n<td>$2-$8<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Variateur d'intensit\u00e9<\/td>\n<td>$10-$40<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Interrupteur intelligent<\/td>\n<td>$15-$50<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Voltage tester (one-time)<\/td>\n<td>$10-$30<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>DIY total (typical)<\/strong><\/td>\n<td><strong>$2-$50 + 30 minutes<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>Electrician call-out<\/strong><\/td>\n<td><strong>$75-$150<\/strong> (typically $50-75 labor + parts for a simple swap)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>It is evidently less costly to use the do-it-yourself (DIY) method for a basic repair; and with the safety measures noted, it is well worth the effort. However, for jobs which are slightly more complicated, hiring a certified electrician for anywhere between $75-150 can be worth the money.<\/p>\n<h2>Questions fr\u00e9quemment pos\u00e9es<\/h2>\n<h3>Can I replace my light switch myself?<\/h3>\n<p>Indeed, changing a standard single-pole switch is something that anyone could do without prior experience. Just shut off the circuit and make sure the power is off, take a photo of the existing connections, remove the switch, connect the new switch (the color of the wire does not matter), and reinstall the switch plate. The entire process takes no more than 30 minutes and will cost $2 to $8. When it comes to 3-way switch or any other special devices or materials (such as aluminum wires or no ground), it is better to consult with a professional or read more about the working procedures.<\/p>\n<h3>What are the common mistakes when changing switches?<\/h3>\n<p>The important mistakes include: not taking a voltage reading, failing to take photos of the wiring before disconnecting, not tightening the terminal screws, making hooks twist counterclockwise, getting the wrong kind of switch and putting a smart switch where there is no neutral wire. On three-way switches, the error is reversing the common wire. However, taking a picture and bringing a manual with you is enough to guarantee that the mistakes won\u2019t happen.<\/p>\n<h3>How much would an electrician charge to change a light switch?<\/h3>\n<p>Generally, a simple replacement may cost between 75 and 150 USD. This amounts to the service call and\/or minimum charge (50-100 USD), in addition to some labor cost and the part defect (2-25 USD). More complicated situations require a lot more financing, e.g., 3-way and smart switch wiring where neutral is missing, old wiring. The cost of a do-it-yourself activity for the replacement may be 2-50 USD and it takes approximately 30 minutes, given that the wiring is done according to standard.<\/p>\n<h3>When replacing a light switch, which wire goes where?<\/h3>\n<p>In the case of a single-pole switch, the connections can be made using either hot wire; it makes no difference because the purpose of the switch is to either allow or prevent flow of electricity. The ground wire will always go to the green screw. However, in the case of a 3-way switch, the common wire should be connected to the COM terminal (often marked with a darker screw) and the two traveler wires should be connected to the other terminals. The position of switching terminal wires must match their previous positions exactly. In case you are not sure about any details, make sure to take a picture before removing the wires and use the wire stickers.<\/p>\n<h2>R\u00e9f\u00e9rences<\/h2>\n<ol>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nfpa.org\/codes-and-standards\/nfpa-70-standard-development\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">NFPA 70 (NEC) \u2014 Article 404 Switches, Installation Requirements<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.osha.gov\/electrical\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">OSHA \u2014 Electrical Safety for DIY and Workplace Tasks<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ul.com\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">UL \u2014 UL 20 General-Use Snap Switches Standard<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/webstore.iec.ch\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">IEC 60669 \u2014 Switches for Household and Similar Fixed Installations<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.leviton.com\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Leviton \u2014 Switch Installation and Wiring Resources<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.angi.com\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Angi \u2014 Electrician Pricing Guide for Switch Replacement<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<h2>Conclusion<\/h2>\n<p>One of the easiest occupations you may do around the house is to replace a light switch. This is done by gathering necessary tools, turning off the power, taking a picture of the wiring, removing the old switch and putting in the new one, making sure the positions of the 3-way switches and the grounding are the same. It costs $2-50 if you do it yourself or $75-150 if you hire an electrician, and the entire process will take about thirty minutes of your time. Despite that, the safety regulations must be complied with strictly, and the common mistakes you may encounter can be avoided.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>If your old switch is broken, doesn&#8217;t function properly, or if you simply want to upgrade to a more stylish model for your kitchen, an electrical switch replacement is one of the most fulfilling and easiest DIY tasks you can do. The process itself is quick and doesn&#8217;t cost more than a few dollars for [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7417,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_gspb_post_css":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7416","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blogs"],"blocksy_meta":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7416","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7416"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7416\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7422,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7416\/revisions\/7422"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7417"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7416"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7416"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7416"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}