{"id":7298,"date":"2026-08-12T18:52:21","date_gmt":"2026-08-12T18:52:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/?p=7298"},"modified":"2026-08-12T18:52:23","modified_gmt":"2026-08-12T18:52:23","slug":"how-to-wire-a-light-switch-uk","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/pt\/blog\/how-to-wire-a-light-switch-uk\/","title":{"rendered":"Como Ligar um Interruptor de Luz no Reino Unido: Guia Passo a Passo"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Voc\u00ea adquiriu um novo interruptor de luz\u2014talvez um rocker em a\u00e7o escovado que vai substituir seu antigo interruptor de pl\u00e1stico volumoso no corredor. Voc\u00ea pega sua chave de fenda e remove a placa frontal e tudo o que v\u00ea dentro \u00e9 uma multid\u00e3o de fios marrons, azuis e verde-amarelos, que nem de longe se parecem com os fios demonstrados nos v\u00eddeos que assistiu na Am\u00e9rica. Isso aconteceu porque a fia\u00e7\u00e3o do Reino Unido \u00e9 regida por suas pr\u00f3prias regras, diferente da Am\u00e9rica.<\/p>\n<p>Neste guia voc\u00ea descobrir\u00e1 tudo sobre a fia\u00e7\u00e3o de interruptores de luz no Reino Unido, incluindo c\u00f3digos de cores (antigos e novos), significado dos diferentes terminais, fia\u00e7\u00e3o de um interruptor unipolar, fia\u00e7\u00e3o de um par de interruptores bipolares e fia\u00e7\u00e3o de um interruptor intermedi\u00e1rio. Voc\u00ea encontrar\u00e1 medidas de seguran\u00e7a a serem tomadas antes de fazer qualquer coisa e saber\u00e1 quando \u00e9 melhor chamar um eletricista especializado para realizar o servi\u00e7o para voc\u00ea.<\/p>\n<blockquote><p><strong>Resposta r\u00e1pida:<\/strong> Cores modernas foram introduzidas nos interruptores de luz do Reino Unido, seguindo a norma BS 7671: marrom = fase, azul = neutro, e verde\/amarelo = terra. Em um interruptor unipolar, o fio fase permanente (marrom) \u00e9 ligado ao terminal COM, enquanto o fio fase (que vai para a luz) \u00e9 conectado ao terminal L1. O fio terra deve ser conectado ao terminal terra (se dispon\u00edvel), e a placa met\u00e1lica deve ser aterrada tamb\u00e9m. Sempre isole o circuito na unidade de consumo e verifique que o circuito est\u00e1 desenergizado usando o testador de voltagem antes de toc\u00e1-lo \u2013 n\u00e3o dependa do interruptor estar \u201cdesligado.\u201d No caso de um interruptor bipolar, haver\u00e1 um terminal L2 adicional junto com um fio strapper entre ambos os interruptores. Se for um interruptor intermedi\u00e1rio, haver\u00e1 um terceiro terminal tamb\u00e9m. Como a substitui\u00e7\u00e3o do interruptor de luz n\u00e3o \u00e9 considerada notificada sob a Parte P, todas as outras instru\u00e7\u00f5es devem ser seguidas conforme a BS 7671.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<h2>Seguran\u00e7a em Primeiro Lugar: Isole e Comprove Aus\u00eancia de Tens\u00e3o<\/h2>\n<p>Antes de tomar qualquer a\u00e7\u00e3o, assegure a seguran\u00e7a do circuito primeiro. Isso n\u00e3o \u00e9 apenas uma op\u00e7\u00e3o, a seguran\u00e7a marca a diferen\u00e7a entre uma tarefa simples e uma ida ao hospital.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7299\" src=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Safety-First-Isolate-Prove-Dead.webp\" alt=\"Safety First: Isolate &amp; Prove Dead\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Desligue o circuito na caixa de fus\u00edveis. Encontre o disjuntor ou fus\u00edvel apropriado que corresponde ao circuito com defeito, ou se estiver em d\u00favida, desligue o interruptor geral.<\/li>\n<li>Confirme que o testador de voltagem est\u00e1 funcionando. Antes de come\u00e7ar a testar o circuito que foi desenergizado, certifique-se de que o testador est\u00e1 funcionando aplicando-o a uma fonte de energia conhecida e ativa.<\/li>\n<li>Teste todos os condutores na caixa de interruptores. Use o testador em todos os terminais, incluindo COM, L1, L2 e o terminal terra, e certifique-se de que todos indiquem zero volts.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Instale um cadeado ou uma etiqueta. Coloque uma nota no disjuntor indicando que voc\u00ea estar\u00e1 trabalhando para que ningu\u00e9m religue o circuito enquanto voc\u00ea estiver trabalhando. Utilize ferramentas el\u00e9tricas de forma adequada e, caso esteja trocando a fia\u00e7\u00e3o em algum ponto, aproveite para verificar se h\u00e1 cabos queimados.<\/p>\n<h2>Ferramentas e Materiais Necess\u00e1rios<\/h2>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Ferramenta \/ Material<\/th>\n<th>Por que Voc\u00ea Precisa<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>Testador de voltagem (testador bipolar ou mult\u00edmetro)<\/td>\n<td>Para provar que o circuito est\u00e1 desligado antes de tocar nos fios<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Chaves de fenda isoladas (fenda + Phillips)<\/td>\n<td>Para parafusos de terminais e parafusos da placa frontal<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Decapadores de fio<\/td>\n<td>Para remover 10\u201312mm de isolamento dos condutores<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Fita \/ manga isolante de PVC marrom<\/td>\n<td>Para revestir qualquer condutor n\u00e3o marrom usado como fase (comutado)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>N\u00edvel de bolha<\/td>\n<td>Para que a nova placa frontal fique alinhada<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Interruptor de substitui\u00e7\u00e3o<\/td>\n<td>Classificado para o circuito (tipicamente 10A ou 16A para ilumina\u00e7\u00e3o)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Lanterna \/ lampi\u00e3o de cabe\u00e7a<\/td>\n<td>Caixas de interruptores raramente s\u00e3o bem iluminadas<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<h2>Cores de fia\u00e7\u00e3o no Reino Unido: Novo vs Antigo<\/h2>\n<p>Em 2004, o Reino Unido harmonizou suas cores de fia\u00e7\u00e3o com a Europa, significando que todas as novas instala\u00e7\u00f5es teriam que utilizar as novas cores a partir de 2006. Portanto, se sua casa foi instalada antes desse ano, voc\u00ea pode esperar encontrar as cores antigas.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7300\" src=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/UK-Wiring-Colours-New-vs-Old.webp\" alt=\"Cores de fia\u00e7\u00e3o no Reino Unido: Novo vs Antigo\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" \/><\/p>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Condutor<\/th>\n<th>Cor moderna (p\u00f3s-2004)<\/th>\n<th>Cor antiga (pr\u00e9-2004)<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>Fase (linha)<\/td>\n<td><strong>Reino Unido \/ IEC (BS 7671, Atual)<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>Vermelho<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Linha (fase de entrada, sempre viva)<\/td>\n<td><strong>Marrom<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>Preto<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Terra (CPC)<\/td>\n<td><strong>Verde\/amarelo<\/strong> (listrado)<\/td>\n<td>Verde (pr\u00e9-1977), depois verde\/amarelo<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Fase comutada (marcada)<\/td>\n<td>Azul ou preto <em>revestido com marrom<\/em><\/td>\n<td>Preto revestido com vermelho<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>A regulamenta\u00e7\u00e3o mais importante \u00e9: qualquer fio que n\u00e3o seja da cor marrom, mas que esteja conduzindo tens\u00e3o viva, deve ser coberto ou isolado com fita marrom em ambas as extremidades. Nos sistemas de ilumina\u00e7\u00e3o do Reino Unido, a linha do cabo que desce at\u00e9 o interruptor possui um fio azul (antigo preto), que \u00e9 ligado; significando que n\u00e3o \u00e9 um fio neutro. Para uma an\u00e1lise mais detalhada do sistema completo de cores, nosso guia sobre <a href=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/pt\/blog\/colours-of-electric-wires-uk\/\" rel=\"nofollow\">cores dos fios el\u00e9tricos no Reino Unido<\/a> cobre cada condutor e a transi\u00e7\u00e3o do antigo para o novo em detalhes.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"terminals\">Entendendo os Terminais do Interruptor: COM, L1, L2<\/h2>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>COM (Comum): A entrada de energia. O fio fase constante (marrom) est\u00e1 conectado a este terminal e est\u00e1 sempre energizado quando o disjuntor est\u00e1 ligado.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>L1: A sa\u00edda da luz comutada. \u00c9 energizada somente quando o interruptor est\u00e1 LIGADO. Normalmente, em instala\u00e7\u00f5es com um \u00fanico interruptor, esta \u00e9 a \u00fanica sa\u00edda utilizada.<\/li>\n<li>L2: A segunda sa\u00edda usada em sistemas de comuta\u00e7\u00e3o avan\u00e7ados, como sistemas de dois sentidos ou intermedi\u00e1rios. Em instala\u00e7\u00f5es com um \u00fanico interruptor, permanece sem uso.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Esteja ciente de que diferentes fabricantes rotulam os terminais de forma diferente, por exemplo, alguns usam C em vez de COM ou L1\/L2\/L3 para seus interruptores intermedi\u00e1rios. Mas o princ\u00edpio b\u00e1sico \u00e9 sempre o mesmo: COM\/C \u00e9 a entrada de energia, enquanto os terminais L s\u00e3o sa\u00eddas comutadas. Sempre consulte o diagrama de fia\u00e7\u00e3o antes da instala\u00e7\u00e3o. Se voc\u00ea j\u00e1 se perguntou o que esses s\u00edmbolos significam, nossa explica\u00e7\u00e3o sobre <a href=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/pt\/blog\/what-does-common-mean-on-a-light-switch\/\" rel=\"nofollow\">o que \u201ccomum\u201d significa em um interruptor de luz<\/a> explica COM\/L1\/L2 com diagramas.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"one-way\">Como ligar um interruptor de luz unipolar<\/h2>\n<p>A one-way switch controls a single light from one location \u2014 the most common setup in UK homes. Here&#8217;s the full step-by-step:<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7301\" src=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/How-to-Wire-a-One-Way-Light-Switch.webp\" alt=\"Como ligar um interruptor de luz unipolar\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Isolate the circuit and ascertain that it has indeed become dead (refer to Safety First above).<\/li>\n<li>Unscrew the old switch and carefully pull it away from the wall. Make sure to take a photo or write down precisely where each wire went before disconnecting anything.<\/li>\n<li>Identify the wires. In a standard loop-in ceiling circuit in the UK, you would encounter:<br \/>\nThe permanent live \u2014 brown (more modern) or red (older) supply<br \/>\nSwitched live \u2014 blue (or old black) wire sleeved brown, traveling up into the light fitting<br \/>\nEarth \u2014 green\/yellow; this is present in metal boxes and for metal faceplates<\/li>\n<li>Prepare the wires. Strip approximately 10mm to 12mm of insulation off the ends of each conductor. If the blue\/black switched live is not already sleeved brown, add a brown sleeve or tape to both ends at this point.<\/li>\n<li>Connect them to the new switch thus:<br \/>\nPermanent live (brown\/red) \u2192 COM terminal<br \/>\nSwitched live (blue\/black, brown-sleeved) \u2192 L1 terminal<br \/>\nEarth (green\/yellow) \u2192 earth terminal (mandatory for metal faceplates; also connect it in plastic boxes if present)<\/li>\n<li>Tighten each terminal, then snag each with yourself testing it with tenderness \u2014 loose connections are among the major causes of arcing, which melts the switch or causes flickering.<\/li>\n<li>Carefully tuck the wires in going concertina-style, so they don&#8217;t pinch against the back box, and screw the faceplate in when it is level.<\/li>\n<li>Restore the power and check. The light should, without a hitch, go on and off. Should it fail or trip the circuit, isolate again and re-check your connections.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>How to Wire Two-Way Switching<\/h2>\n<p>In two-way switching circuits, one switch controls a single light from two different locations, such as the top and bottom of a set of stairs. This arrangement uses two two-way switches, which incorporate COM, L1, and L2, connected via a 3-core-and-earth cable which consists of two \u201cstrapper\u201d wires and the earth wire.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>The connections at Switch 1 are permanent live (brown\/red) connected to COM with two strapper wires, usually brown and grey from the 3-core cable, connected to L1 and L2 respectively. The two strapper wires connect L1 and L2 of switch 1 to L1 and L2 of switch 2 respectively.<\/li>\n<li>Switch 2 has the outgoing switched live (going to the light fitting) connected to COM and the strapper wires connected to L1 and L2 respectively.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Make sure any strapper that is not brown is sleeved brown to indicate it carries live potential. It is easy to remember that electricity enters Switch 1 at COM, is switched off at Switch 1, and travels between L1 and L2 pairs, connected together at Switch 1 and Switch 2 respectively.<\/p>\n<h2>Intermediate Switching (Three or More Locations)<\/h2>\n<p>An intermediate switch introduces a third (or maybe even a fourth) switch, including one that operates a landing light from the hallway, ground level, and upstairs. This is arranged as follows:<\/p>\n<p>Two two-way switches are set up (wired in the same manner as previously);One or more intermediate switches are included in the arrangement;An intermediate switch comes with four terminals (which are designated either as L1 and L2 or L3 and L4 or some twinning) and acts as a crossing point for the two traveler wires that come from the first switch and reach the second switch after passing through the middle one.<\/p>\n<p>Unlike two-way switches, an intermediate switch has nothing to do with the power supply or the light switched. Intermediate wiring is one of those steps in the process that many DIY enthusiasts find hard to achieve. If the diagram inside the switch doesn&#8217;t correspond to what you see in the switch box, it is better to call for help from an electrician as this job is both rather simple for him and extremely complicated for an amateur. Also, it is important to know the type of switch that you are working with.Our guide to the <a href=\"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/pt\/blog\/types-of-light-switch\/\" rel=\"nofollow\">tipos de interruptores de luz<\/a> shows how one-way, two-way, and intermediate switches differ in appearance and terminal layout.<\/p>\n<h2>Common Scenarios &amp; What You&#8217;ll See in the Box<\/h2>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Scenario<\/th>\n<th>What&#8217;s likely in the box<\/th>\n<th>What to do<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>Single switch, one cable<\/td>\n<td>Brown (permanent live) + blue\/black sleeved brown (switched live) + earth<\/td>\n<td>One-way wiring: live \u2192 COM, switched live \u2192 L1<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Single switch, two cables<\/td>\n<td>Loop-in circuit: incoming supply + outgoing cable to next light<\/td>\n<td>Two live wires joined (connector) or to COM; switched live \u2192 L1. Often needs a connector block for the neutrals<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Two switches for one light<\/td>\n<td>Two two-way switches with strappers<\/td>\n<td>Two-way wiring as above<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Three or more switches<\/td>\n<td>Two-way ends + intermediate middle<\/td>\n<td>Intermediate wiring as above<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Old red\/black wiring<\/td>\n<td>Red (live), black (neutral\/switched live), green\/yellow (earth)<\/td>\n<td>Treat red as brown; sleeve black used as live with red tape; verify with tester<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<h2>Wiring Mistakes to Avoid<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Confusing a switched live with a neutral wire. Generally, the blue wire found in the box is switched live and the neutral wire. Connecting the former as a neutral or vice versa causes shorts or lights that may not work.<\/li>\n<li>Not using a sleeve to cover the switched live brown wire. This is a safety issue and will assist future users of the circuit.<\/li>\n<li>Exposing too much copper wire. Only strip enough wire for the connection to form (10-12cm will suffice); bare copper wires can create shorts when coming into contact with other terminals.<\/li>\n<li>Loose connections. Make sure to tug test each connection. Connections may arc and spark causing fires.<\/li>\n<li>Not earthed plate. If you have no earth wire in your junction box and connect a metal face plate, this could result in electric shocks.<\/li>\n<li>Working on an active circuit. Don&#8217;t operate with power on; take a safer route.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>When to Call a Professional Electrician<\/h2>\n<p>Replacing a light switch is often seen as a feasible DIY task but you should stop and contact a licensed electrician in the following scenarios:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>You open the junction box and have no idea what you&#8217;re looking at<\/li>\n<li>You find damage to the insulation or evidence of overheating<\/li>\n<li>You have a metal junction box or faceplate but no earth wire<\/li>\n<li>You need to install new wiring, modify an existing switch, or have to add new points<\/li>\n<li>You&#8217;ve got a dimmer switch, or a smart switch and don&#8217;t know about its compatibility or function<\/li>\n<li>Your circuit breaker keeps tripping as you worked on it<\/li>\n<li>You want an electrical installation certificate<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>An electrician will charge anything from \u00a350 to \u00a390 per hour to fix small jobs and replacing a light switch usually is a quick call-out, which is basically cheap insurance compared to the consequences of a fire or an injury.<\/p>\n<h2>UK Regulations: Part P, BS 7671 &amp; Testing<\/h2>\n<p>All electrical installation work in England and Wales has to conform to Part P of the Building Regulations, as well as the building and installation requirements of BS 7671 (the IET Wiring Regulations). The good news for those who do electrical work as DIY is that replacing a light switch is seen as minor work and therefore doesn\u2019t need to be reported to the local authority \u2013 although it must still comply with BS 7671, and the job needs signing off.If you ever wish to sell or rent the property, having the work certified helps avoid complications in the future.<\/p>\n<h2>Perguntas Frequentes<\/h2>\n<h3>Which wires go where in a light switch?<\/h3>\n<p>Connecting wires in a UK single switch light is a relatively simple affair. The live wire in a single switch connection should be connected to the COM terminal, while the switched live wire is connected to L1. The earth wire should also be connected to the earth terminal if the face plate or box is metallic in quality. In a two-way switch connection, the COM terminal carries the live at one end and the right switched live wire at the other terminal, while the L1 and L2 connectors are connected through strapper wires. Never forget to check the diagram on the switch before wiring and turning on the circuit.<\/p>\n<h3>Does it matter which wires go where on a light switch?<\/h3>\n<p>Yes, that does matter. The permanent live must go to the COM\/common terminal and the switched live to L1 (single pole). If the two are swapped the switch seems to work, but the light side remains live even when the switch is off\u2014creating an electric shock risk for the person changing the bulb. If the travelers are at the wrong leads at two-way and intermediate circuits, the light will only function when both switches are in a certain position. Acting as if the blue switched live is neutral will produce a short circuit if the circuit is switched on. If you are ever in doubt as to which wire is which, do not hesitate to call the electrician.<\/p>\n<h3>What happens if you wire a light switch the wrong way?<\/h3>\n<p>It is related to the complication involved. The easiest case is when the switch works but leaves the circuit \u201clive\u201d at all times. This is dangerous when attempting to change the bulb. Possibly more serious is switching a hot lead into the neutral socket, or connecting the wires incorrectly, leading to the short circuit which may cause the circuit breaker to turn off the supply \u2014 and if the protection does not work or if the cable is damaged, this may foster arcing and overheating, as well as fire. An improper connection may also cause the switch to flicker, hum, and become heated.<\/p>\n<h2>Refer\u00eancias<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/electrical.theiet.org\/wiring-matters\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">IET \u2014 Wiring Matters: BS 7671 guidance and wiring regulations resources<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.gov.uk\/government\/publications\/part-p-of-the-building-regulations\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">GOV.UK \u2014 Part P of the Building Regulations (England and Wales)<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.niceic.com\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">NICEIC \u2014 competent person schemes and electrical safety guidance<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/engineerfix.com\/uk-light-switch-wiring-diagram-and-step-by-step-guide\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">EngineerFix \u2014 UK Light Switch Wiring Diagram and Step-by-Step Guide<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.easyhomeimprovement.co.uk\/how-should-a-light-switch-be-wired-in-the-uk\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Easy Home Improvement \u2014 How Should a Light Switch Be Wired in the UK?<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.homebuilding.co.uk\/advice\/how-to-wire-a-light-switch\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Homebuilding &amp; Renovating \u2014 How to Wire a Light Switch<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.which.co.uk\/reviews\/electricians\/article\/electricians\/find-a-good-electrician\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Which? \u2014 finding a qualified electrician and consumer safety advice<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Conclus\u00e3o<\/h2>\n<p>Wiring a light switch in the UK is something that can be done quite easily without any major risks if you follow a few rules: switch off the circuit at the distribution box, verify that it is indeed off using a voltage tester, learn the wiring color codes: brown for live wire, blue for neutral, green\/yellow for earth (also, it is important to remember the switched live wire).<\/p>\n<p>Your best bet for wiring is to keep it simple, take a picture of the old wiring before you start unwiring anything, do a tug-test on the connectors, earth the metallic faceplate, and don\u2019t try working with a dead circuit! If you happen to run into any issues like wiring being older than what is indicated in any wiring books, colors not being what they are supposed to be, lack of earthing, wires being damaged, or anything else that doesn\u2019t match the wiring textbook, you should definitely call a professional electrician!<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>You have acquired a new light switch\u2014perhaps a brushed steel rocker that is going to replace your old cumbersome plastic switch in your hallway. You take out your screwdriver and remove the faceplate and all you see inside is a multitude of brown, blue, and green-yellow wires, which do not even closely resemble the wires [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7302,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_gspb_post_css":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7298","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blogs"],"blocksy_meta":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7298","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7298"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7298\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7305,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7298\/revisions\/7305"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7302"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7298"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7298"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gog-elec.com\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7298"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}